Journal of FARM SCIENCES, Vol 29, No 5 (2016)

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Performance properties of organic cotton fabrics by objective evaluation (KES-F)

SHAILAJA D. NAIK

Abstract


Cotton is often referred to as “the fabric of our lives,” According to the Organic Trade Association organic cottonis grown without the use of toxic pesticides or fertilizers. It is a natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre. It benefits cottonproducers and the environment in developing countries by avoiding the harmful effects of toxic pesticides. Weaving beingthe major mode of fabric manufacture and the monotony of the simple woven structure can be revamped by creatingpatterns on it, improving the physical and aesthetic characteristics by several wet processes. The hand woven organic fabricis subjected to series of finishes viz., scouring, bleaching, mercerization, sanforization, tentering, and finally calendaring toimprove the hand feel of the fabric. Cotton being universal fabric has innumerable end uses of which clothing is the mostfocused one since it forms the basic necessity of human kind. There are several parameters of the cloth that determines itsperformance viz., cloth count, yarn count, bending length, crease recovery and fabric shrinkage assessed either subjectivelyand objectively. Hence, an effort was made to assess the impact of functional finishes on the performance properties oforganic cotton fabric by KES-F system. The results revealed that significant improvement was noted in the smoothness andsoftness values of the bleached fabric compared to the unbleached fabric; The Total Hand Value (THV) was higher for thebleached fabric by virtue of higher smoothness (Numeri) and fullness and softness (Fukurami) values; Compressionalenergy (WC) was higher for the unbleached fabric by virtue of greater thickness for these fabrics. However, these fabricsexhibited lower compressional resiliency (RC) compared to the bleached fabric, Even with higher fabric count, the bendingrigidity for the bleached fabric was marginally lower than unbleached fabric, indicating better flexibility for the former;Remarkable improvement was observed in the surface features of the fabrics after bleaching, Coefficient of friction(MIU), Deviation in the coefficient of friction (MMD) and Geometrical roughness (SMD) was much lower for the bleachedfabrics implying a smoother surface topology for these fabrics

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