Journal of FARM SCIENCES, Vol 29, No 5 (2016)

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Diversification in naturally coloured cotton yarns : An eco-friendly approach

SADHANA D. KULLOLI

Abstract


Naturally coloured cottons are usually shorter in staple length, weaker in fibre strength and have low micronairevalue and are not suitable for heavy machine spinning. In order to improve its properties, naturally coloured cotton has tobe either blended with other strong fibres or produce union fabrics. Hence, to bring diversification in naturally colouredcotton, an attempt is made to produce union fabrics, bed linens and bed sheets (Striped and checks). Two genotypes ofnaturally brown cotton yarns viz., Dharwad Desi Colour Cotton -1 (DDCC-1) and Dharwad Brown Hirsutum – 250(DBH-250) were woven on handloom with white cotton, Polyester cotton blend (P/C), filature silks (Muga, Mulberry andTasar silks) to produce eco-friendly union fabrics. Japanese Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB) assessed these unionfabrics for their performance. The union fabrics showed higher tensile strength, bending, shear, compressional and surfaceproperty values indicating the fabrics having low bending rigidity and fabric density, greater flexural rigidity than theircorresponding control samples. Koshi (stiffness), Numeri (Smoothness), Fukurami (Fullness and softness) and Sofutosa(softness) were the primary Hand values of KES-FB, in turn assisted to rate the total Hand Value (THV). The THVrevealed that, union fabrics are most suitable (good to excellent) for women’s winter thin dress and fairly suitable (fair togood) for women’s winter suits. Further, eri silk was dyed with 3% lac dye and woven with naturally coloured cotton toproduce Eri X NCC union fabric and tested for its physical properties. Eri X NCC fabric showed higher values of fabricthickness, weft way bending length and crease recovery angle, abrasion resistance proving the fabric to be stiffer and coarser.However, a variety of bed linens, checks and striped bed sheets were also designed and woven on handloom with whitecotton : an eco-friendly and comfortable product suitable for children and skin irritants.

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